Europe’s marquee cities still command the spotlight. Still, the smart money often sees the better play is elsewhere, Condé Nast writes. Not in hidden gems or secret finds. Those cliches died with the last decade. The better play is in working cities that haven’t yet been strip-mined for content or paved smooth for the algorithm. The sameness is what gets you. Every square becomes a stage set, every local joint a “discovery” on someone’s expense account. But the cities worth your time? They run on different logic entirely. These cities are small enough for everyone to know who owns the bookshop. They are big enough for decent bands to book actual tours through them. You’ll find a university keeping the arguments interesting, a port or river keeping the economy honest. Most importantly, there’s enough local money floating around that nobody’s dancing for tourist euros.
Here’s how you recognize them: The trams show up when they should, but nobody’s prettified the streets for your camera. Saturday markets thrive because locals need dinner, not atmosphere. That talented chef who trained in Copenhagen? She came home because the numbers worked and her grandmother still cooks Sunday lunch. The artists haven’t been priced out yet. The city council fights about bike lanes like it matters. And yes, everything closes for a proper lunch—because some traditions are worth defending.
To map this terrain, Condé Nast asked on-the-ground specialists and Europe-based operators who book these trips for a living. It includes Adriatic ports where workboats outnumber pleasure craft.
Tirana, Albania
A visit to Tirana offers a glimpse into Albania’s unsettling (yet captivating) recent history. It also provides an invigorating taste of a vibrant, rapidly evolving capital. The city combines fascinating architectural reminders of the country’s communist chapter. It has a distinctly youthful energy. This energy is best encapsulated by the metamorphosis of the monumental 1988 Tirana Pyramid into a youth-focused cultural hub. The city center is walkable and full of places to simply ‘be’. You can take a seat on the sofa-esque benches of Skanderbeg Square, iced coffee in hand. Nature never feels too far away. This is courtesy not least of the vast Grand Park and majestic Mount Dajti, which flanks the city.
For stellar views and a sense of the landscape surrounding Tirana, head up Mount Dajti with the cable car. Then, embark on a culinary journey through Albania at restaurant Mullixhiu. This restaurant feels like a country retreat on the edge of the Grand Park. To experience the best of Tirana nightlife, make a beeline for the Blloku neighborhood.”
Prishtina, Kosovo
“Often overlooked, Prishtina is definitely worth a stop on a Balkan adventure for its laidback, young feel. There is a vibrant creative scene. Check out LambdaLambdaLambda, the first international gallery for contemporary art in Prishtina. Visit art spaces like Stacion and Galeria 17. Prishtina burst onto the global art scene in 2022. This occurred during Manifesta 14, the nomadic pan-regional cultural Biennial. It brought 100 days of exhibitions, workshops, and events to the city. It also drew artists, architects, and visitors from around the world.
The National Gallery of Kosovo is also worth a visit. There’s great cafe culture—Half & Half Café, Dit’ e Nat’, Soma Book Station—and foodie spots—Liburnia, Shpija e Vjetër, Taverna Tirona. You can get a sense of local produce at the Green Market. Architectural points of interest include the love-it-or-hate-it National Library, the Newborn Monument, and the statue of Bill Clinton. There are religious landmarks like the Zhamia e Madhe mosque. You can also visit the abandoned Saviour Orthodox Cathedral and the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa. The Gračanica Monastery, protected by UNESCO, can be visited after a short drive from the city. Then, enjoy a stroll or picnic in Gërmia Park.
Ohrid, North Macedonia
“We all know the Balkans are home to some stunning seaside spots, but we shouldn’t forget about the region’s lakes! One of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, Lake Ohrid straddles North Macedonia and Albania. The eponymous city of Ohrid on the North Macedonian shore is the perfect base for a lakeside break. It combines sweetwater swimming and sunbathing with awe-inspiring nature. The lake is often referred to as the ‘European Galapagos,’ thanks to its dense biodiversity. Ohrid also offers Byzantine religious history and architecture.
After a relaxing morning by the water at Potpesh or Kaneo beach, enjoy a walk on the boardwalk. Explore the charming cobbled streets of the UNESCO-protected town. For a history hit, head up to the cliffside Church of St. John at Kaneo or admire stunning vistas from Tsar Samuel’s Fortress, before discovering the Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Ohrid. Viva Ksantika is known for hearty local cuisine. Kaj Kanevche is a popular choice for waterfront eateries. If you have a little more time, take a boat trip across the lake. Visit the enchanting Monastery of Saint Naum.
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
“Mostar is a beautiful medieval town with a mix of Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman architecture. It’s home to the iconic Stari Most bridge from which the city gets its name. There are many restaurants offering traditional and filling food. Some examples include dolma, which are vegetables stuffed with ground meat and rice. Another example is sarma, which are stuffed cabbage leaves. They also offer fresh bread. The city’s relaxed energy makes it easy to turn an afternoon of strolling around the town into an evening enjoying comfort food while sipping rakija, the national spirit of Bosnia, and listening to the soothing sounds of the river.”
Herceg Novi, Montenegro
“Think of it as the calm base near the Bay of Kotor. Forty-five minutes to an hour from Dubrovnik airport once you’re over the border. One&Only Portonovi is 15 minutes away, Savina Winery nearby for a serious tasting. Take a day trip to Kotor and Perast. It’s about an hour. Tick the sights and then come back to a waterfront. It isn’t governed by cruise timetables. There’s real investment flowing in, as clients are already using it as the smarter hub.”
Šibenik, Croatia
“Šibenik is about an hour north of Split and an easy hour from the airport. UNESCO cathedral, yes, but also Krka National Park right there and a proper food-and-wine hinterland—prosciutto tastings, home-hosted cooking, small wineries. It’s the gateway to a different island group than the Hvar-Korčula circuit. With EU works reshaping Split’s harbor, luxury fleets are shifting north. We’re moving six of our yachts to base here. This means you get better boats and berths while it still feels under the radar.”
Thessaloniki, Greece
Thessaloniki is still losing out to Athens when it comes to tourists. Nonetheless, Greece’s second city is well worth a visit. Come for the world-class food scene. Thessalonki was named Greece’s first ‘City of Gastronomy’ by UNESCO in November 2021. Stay for the fun, creative vibe. This is owing in part to the large student population. Its historical offering is a little less grandiose than the Acropolis. Yet, it is no less rich. Think of a well-preserved Roman forum, the frescoes of the Rotunda, and Ottoman hamams.
The city has a rich multicultural heritage. What many people don’t know about the city—and, indeed, I was unaware of until I actually lived there—is this fact. In the early 20th century, for example, Thessaloniki had the largest Jewish population in Europe. The legacy of this Jewish community, particularly in architecture, is all around if you know where to look. All of this happens while maintaining a decidedly relaxed outlook. Athens residents often jokingly use the term ‘halara.’ This term relates to Thessaloniki, denoting the city’s chilled-out atmosphere and slower pace of life.
