Ksamil beach, Albania

While in Albania, visit these 10 amazing places

Beaches to rival Greece, mountains straight out of the Alps, wild rivers that eat the Rhine for breakfast, and an uber-cool, artsy capital that leaves you yawning at Berlin! But before your first visit to Albania, you are not wrong for thinking, that it couldn’t possibly be all this. Given the country was essentially cut off from the rest of the world by a dictatorship for much of the 20th century, you could hardly be blamed. But, like me, you would be wrong. So, be prepared to be dazzled by the diversity and beauty of its rivers, beaches, mountains and cities.

1. Ksamil


For those enchanted by descriptions of Albania as “the Maldives of Europe”, Ksamil should be your first point of call. This beach town has buttermilk-sandy beaches, like Bora Bora and Ksamil beach (many others are pebbly). These give onto looking-glass water and floating pontoons with thatched umbrellas. There are four uninhabited islets, the Ksamil Islands, which you can swim or pedalo to from Ksamil’s main beachwith a picnic. The incredibly popular Blue Eye is about 50 minutes’ drive away: this turquoise pool has water so clear you can see down to 50m or so, where an underwater cave gives the impression, from above, that you’re looking into the dark pupil of an eye.

2. Theth National Park

Theth
Theth

One for the hikers, this national park sits in the foothills of the Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps, in the north of the country. Expect crashing waterfalls, velvety meadows and whooshing river valleys. It’s a great place for wildlife spotting, with local residents including chamois, lynx, wolves and brown bears. Furthermore, one of the best and easiest trails is the five-mile Theth Waterfall Trail, where you can swim at the foot of the cascade. For more serious hikers, there’s the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans Trail, which crosses into Kosovo and Montenegro.

3. Tirana

Tirana is a whole new take on post-Communist cool. Unlike Berlin or Warsaw, it’s surprisingly colourful, with farmers’ markets, leafy squares, and edgy art galleries. It’s renowned for its former military bunkers, which have been converted into trendy pizza parlours, artist ateliers and piercing studios. Also, in Blloku — Tirana’s answer to London’s Shoreditch — you can hang out in great craft breweries like the Taproom by Pan’s Microbrewery and visit exhibitions at the National Gallery of Arts. Make sure to ride the cable car up Mount Dajti for superb views over the city.

4. Berat

If Tirana is Albania’s London, Berat is Bath. The Unesco-listed city centre has that same picture-perfect charm. Its Ottoman villas tumble down a cliff to a gushing river gorge — indeed, their terracotta roofs and wooden windows create a flowing patchwork. The walk to the 2,500-year-old fortress which crowns the cliff is steep but worth it for the views, while the region surrounding Berat is known for its wines. A visit to family-owned Pupa winery involves a sumptuous tasting of their unique local grape varieties and cheeses.

5. Shkoder

Albania’s rugged north is well known for its majestic lakes and mountains. Firstly, Lake Skadar (or Shkodra) is the jewel in its crown, a vast affair fringed with beaches, monasteries and fishing villages — and Montenegro on the opposite shore. Base yourself in Shkoder, the city on its edge, which has a Roman-era castle and particularly good restaurant scene — try Arti’Zanave. Further afield, the farm-to-table eatery Mrizi i Zanave is 100 per cent worth the 40-minute drive from the city.

6. Saranda

One of Albania’s most popular seaside destinations, Saranda has a buzzy centre with plenty of seafood restaurants, beach clubs and bars. Sea-view sunsets by Lekursi Castle are particularly spectacular. It’s only a half-hour drive to Ksamil too, so you could easily visit both. Also, Saranda becomes a bit of a party town in summer. Make sure to visit Butrint, arguably Europe’s most scenic archeological site. Unlike its peers in Rome or Athens, this Unesco site is usually deliciously uncrowded, with views over a coastal lagoon.

7. Llogara National Park

The USP of hiking in Llogara National Park is its views. The park sits among some mountain peaks set just back from the north end of the Albanian Riviera. So, hiking through thick pine forests, you get occasional peeks down to the sparkling water. The Maja e Qorres trail is a tricky six-mile ascent with great panoramas. Most of the park’s accommodation and restaurants are clustered around the main visitor centre.

8. Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster, Albania
Gjirokaster, Albania

Another Unesco-listed gem, Gjirokaster is sure to charm with its 600 or so Ottoman-era manors, restored bazaar and cobbled streets full of tempting shops and cafés. Swing by Zekate House — a stunning example of Ottoman architecture — for a tour with one of the owners. The city bursts with history, whether you’re visiting the spooky Cold War tunnel or listening to one of the regular performances of Albanian folk music at Te Kube, a cultural space, café and antique shop.

9. Kruja

Kruja will transport you to an area of sultans and viziers with its Turkish baths, medieval citadel, and bustling bazaar where you can peruse carpets and dried fruit. It was Albania’s first capital and sits just an hour’s drive north of Tirana. Dive deep into local folklore in the Ethnographic Museum.

10. Durres

Albania’s most ancient city, Durres has a history stretching back around 3,000 years. Visit for the Roman amphitheatre and the pink and white palace of King Zog, who took power, crowned himself king and ruled until the Second World War. There’s also a six-mile beach just outside the centre which is very popular in summer. Furthermore, for something quieter, head north to Kallmi beach, which is smaller and more popular with locals.

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